If you’ve ever looked at rod specs, you’ve seen labels like 24T, 30T, 36T, or even 40T. Most anglers assume “higher tonnage = better rod.” But that’s not true in real NZ fishing. This blog explains exactly what tonnage means, what it doesn’t mean, and which materials actually perform best for NZ conditions.
What “Tonnage” Means
“T” refers to the tensile modulus of carbon fibre. Higher T numbers mean stiffer carbon sheets.
24T = strong, durable, deeper bending
30T = lighter, faster recovery
36T+ = ultra-stiff and ultralight, but more brittle
There is no industry-wide standard for tonnage, so 36T from one brand may perform like 30T from another.
Why 24T Is Perfect for NZ
NZ fishing is brutal on gear. Rocks, boats, kayaks, reef shock loads, accidental knocks.
24T offers durability, good recovery speed, and outstanding shock resistance.
It is the most dependable material for snapper, kahawai, straylining, rock fishing, and general boat fishing.
Where 30T Shines
30T is the sweet spot between sensitivity and durability.
It has better recovery speed than 24T but is still tough enough for NZ conditions.
Ideal for softbaiting, light jigging, freshwater spinning, and lure fishing.
The Truth About 36T and Higher
High-modulus rods feel incredible in the hand—light, crisp, and fast—but they are far more brittle.
They fail from impacts, sudden load, high-sticking, or braid shock.
This is why many Japanese rods don’t last long here—they are built for controlled environments, not rugged NZ conditions.
Why Tonnage Alone Is Misleading
Rod performance depends on resin system, taper design, wall thickness, carbon blend, and fibre direction.
Two rods both labelled “30T” can behave completely differently.
Tonnage is only one small part of blank design.
Best Tonnage Choices for NZ
Softbait rods: 30T or a 24T/30T blend
Light/medium jig rods: 24T or blend
Surf rods: 24T or 30T
Kayak rods: 24T only
Kingfish/livebait rods: 24T
NZ conditions demand durability first and sensitivity second.
Final Verdict
For NZ fishing, 24T and 30T carbon offer the best balance of performance, durability, and longevity.
High-modulus carbon has a place, but not for most NZ styles.
If you want a rod that lasts, bends deeper, and survives real fishing, lower-modulus materials win.
✅
FAQ — Carbon Tonnage (24T, 30T, 36T) Explained
Q1: What does 24T, 30T, and 36T mean in fishing rods?
These numbers refer to the stiffness (tensile modulus) of the carbon fibre sheet used in the blank.
24T is tough and forgiving, 30T is lighter with faster recovery, and 36T+ is extremely stiff but more brittle.
There is no universal standard, so performance varies between manufacturers.
Q2: Is higher carbon tonnage always better?
No. Higher tonnage carbon is lighter and more sensitive, but far more brittle.
In NZ conditions—rocks, boats, kayaks, reef shock loads—rods above 36T often fail from impacts or sudden overload.
Q3: What carbon tonnage is best for NZ fishing rods?
For most NZ fishing, 24T and 30T carbon offer the best mix of durability, bend, recovery speed, and longevity.
Higher tonnage (36T+) is best reserved for controlled, finesse lure fishing.
Q4: Why do some high-modulus rods break easily in NZ?
Because they are designed for light, controlled fishing in countries like Japan.
NZ fishing is harsh — accidental knocks, high drag, braid shock, and reef loads quickly expose the brittleness of high-modulus carbon.
Q5: Do rod builders mix different carbon tonnages?
Yes. Many blanks use blends like 24T/30T to balance strength and performance.
Blends often outperform single-modulus rods in real-world use.
Q6: Does carbon tonnage affect casting distance?
Yes, indirectly.
Higher tonnage rods recover faster, which can improve casting efficiency — but only if the rod is not overloaded or damaged.
Durability is more important for most NZ anglers.
Q7: What tonnage does K-Labs prefer?
24T and 30T for almost all NZ applications.
These offer the perfect balance of durability, bend profile, impact resistance, and controlled recovery.
Q8: Should kayak anglers avoid high-modulus rods?
Yes. Kayak fishing is full of accidental knocks and awkward pressure angles.
24T carbon is the safest and most reliable option.
Q9: Are tonnage numbers reliable across brands?
Not really.
A “36T” blank from one manufacturer might behave like a “30T” blank from another.
Only real-world testing tells the whole story.
Q10: What matters more than tonnage?
Resin quality, wall thickness, taper design, fibre orientation, and overall blank engineering.
Tonnage is just one of many factors.