K-Labs Custom Rods – Rods of Fine Design

When building a high-performance rod, it all starts with the blank. For anglers searching for custom fishing rod blanks in NZ, understanding rod power and casting weight is essential.

These aren’t just specs on a page — they shape how your rod performs, feels, and responds on the water. At K-Labs, we custom-build rods to match your fishing style. That means getting the fundamentals right from the start.

💪 What Is Rod Power?

Rod power refers to the amount of force needed to bend the blank. It tells you how much backbone the rod has.

Rod Power – What It Means

Ultra-Light – Bends easily. Ideal for small species.

Light – Soft action. Good for finesse techniques.

Medium-Light – Slightly firmer. Handles light lures well.

Medium – Balanced flex. A solid all-rounder.

Medium-Heavy – Stronger backbone. Handles softbaits and bigger fish.

Heavy – Designed for serious lift. Ideal for live bait or reef work.

Extra-Heavy – Maximum lifting power. Kingfish, tuna, offshore use.

More power = more lift. Less power = more flex.

We help you choose the right balance based on how and where you fish.

🎯 What Is Casting Weight?

Casting weight is the ideal weight range the blank is designed to throw.

If you cast too light, the rod won’t load. It’ll feel stiff, and your cast will fall short.

If you cast too heavy, the rod may overload or even fail. Accuracy drops, and control suffers.

Matching your rod’s power to its casting weight range is key to making your setup perform properly. We’ll guide you through that decision based on your technique and gear.

⚖️ Power vs. Casting Weight — Not Always the Same

Rod power and casting weight aren’t standardized across brands.

One company’s “Medium” might behave like another’s “Medium-Heavy.”

That’s why we don’t rely on labels alone. We test every blank we use — in real-world NZ fishing conditions.

When you work with K-Labs, you get more than just specs — you get proven performance.

🛠️ Choosing Custom Fishing Rod Blanks in NZ

If you’re looking for custom fishing rod blanks in NZ, there are a few key things to consider. We help you match your blank to:

– Your target species

– Your preferred technique (e.g. softbaiting, jigging, rock fishing)

– Your line and reel setup

– Your casting weight range

– Your preferred rod feel and balance

From there, we dial in guide layout, grip type, and seat positioning — for a rod that feels like an extension of your arm.

This is what separates custom from factory-built. It’s tailored. It’s refined. It’s right.

✅ Quick Reference – Power & Application

Light – Small lures, light line, finesse fishing

Medium – General purpose, softbaiting, estuary to inshore

Medium-Heavy – Larger softbaits, snapper, deeper water

Heavy – Live bait, reef species, larger drag setups

Extra-Heavy – Kings, tuna, serious offshore and rock applications

If you’re unsure where your needs fall, just ask — we’ll walk you through it.

💬 Ready to Build?

We specialize in custom fishing rod blanks for NZ anglers who demand more — more performance, more control, and more connection to every strike.

Whether you’re dropping jigs in 100m, flicking softbaits at the reef edge, or fighting kings from the bricks — it all starts with the right blank.

👉 Talk to Us About Your Build

👉 Explore Custom Rod Categories

Solid Carbon vs Hollow Carbon Blanks: Which is Better — and Why It Depends on the Application

If you’ve ever debated whether solid or hollow carbon blanks are better for your fishing rod build, you’re not alone. The answer isn’t black and white — but it is pretty clear once you break it down.

Spoiler

: Hollow carbon blanks outperform solid carbon in nearly every way — except one. Let’s dive in.

What’s the Real Difference Between Solid and Hollow Carbon?

• Solid carbon blanks are made from continuous, dense material with no hollow core. Tough and simple — but heavy.
• Hollow carbon blanks are engineered with layered carbon wrapped around a mandrel. They’re lighter, more responsive, and far more refined.

Why Hollow Carbon Is the Gold Standard for Rod Performance

✅ Sensitivity

Hollow blanks transmit vibrations directly through the blank to your hand. That means you can feel more: light bites, bottom transitions, and lure action — even in deep water.

✅ Weight

Hollow blanks are significantly lighter, making them easier to cast and more comfortable to fish all day long.

✅ Recovery Speed

The tip snaps back quickly after flexing, which improves lure control, casting accuracy, and hook-setting response.

✅ Action Control

With hollow blanks, rod builders can fine-tune the taper — from fast-action softbait rods to deep-parabolic slow pitch jig rods. This control over action isn’t possible with solid carbon.

Where Solid Carbon Still Wins: Durability

If toughness is the goal, solid carbon still rules. It resists impact, crushing, and high-sticking better than any hollow rod.

• Ideal for boat rods, kayak rods, or anything prone to rough handling.
• Perfect for kids, rental gear, or commercial operators.

Use the Right Rod for the Right Job

Durability is important — but only when it matches the rod’s purpose. If you’re using your rods properly (no high-sticking, no crushing them in hatches & car doors ), hollow carbon rods are more than tough enough.

And in return, you get superior casting, better lure feel, and more effective hook sets.

Solid vs Hollow Carbon — Quick Comparison

Feature	Hollow Carbon ✅	Solid Carbon 🛡️
Sensitivity	Excellent	Dull feel
Weight	Lightweight	Heavy
Recovery Speed	Fast	Slow
Casting Performance	Superior	Limited
Action Control	Fully tunable	Basic/parabolic
Durability	Tough enough	Indestructible
Best For	Softbait, slow jig, surf, topwater	Boat, kids, kayak, rental rods

Final Word: Performance First, Durability Second

At K-Labs, we design rods with a clear goal: performance, purpose, and feel.

Choose hollow carbon for any technique that relies on finesse, action, and contact with the lure — softbait, slow pitch, mechanical jigging, or surf.

Choose solid carbon for situations where survival matters more than feel — boat rods, kids’ rods, or pure abuse tolerance.

Use the right rod for the right job, and durability won’t even be a concern.

Ready to build your next rod?

Explore our Solid Core™ Series for high-durability applications, or take a look at the Crossover HX™ Series for high-performance hollow builds designed to handle anything NZ can throw at them.

Why Snapper Fishing Shines in Winter

Why Winter Snapper Fishing NZ Deserves More Hype

Winter snapper fishing in NZ is often underrated — but those in the know are quietly cashing in. As the weather cools, the fishing often heats up. Here’s why cold-water snapper missions are well worth the effort.

The Big Reds Move Shallow

In cooler months, baitfish head offshore — and big, solitary snapper follow them toward inshore structure, channel edges, and reef zones. This shift creates a prime opportunity to target trophy snapper in accessible areas, especially for land-based or kayak anglers.

Quiet Waters, Confident Fish

Fewer boats on the water means less engine noise and pressure. Winter fish are often more confident and aggressive when presented with the right bait or lure. That means better hookup rates and less competition for the best spots.

Techniques That Work

Winter snapper fishing in NZ rewards a slow and steady approach. Light braid (10–15lb) paired with fluoro leader (12–20lb) provides stealth and sensitivity. Use softbaits or slow jigs with subtle movement — no big jerks needed. Let the lure sit longer and be ready for light taps. A fast-action rod helps detect subtle strikes and set the hook cleanly.

The Right Gear for the Job

Cold-water snapper sessions are about feel and finesse. A purpose-built rod like those from K-Labs gives you the responsiveness needed to read the bite and stay in control. Whether you’re casting softbaits or fluttering a jig, matched gear makes the difference.

Cold-water snapper sessions are about feel and finesse. A purpose-built rod like those from K-Labs gives you the responsiveness needed to read the bite and stay in control. Whether you’re casting softbaits or fluttering a jig, matched gear makes the difference. If you’re just starting out or upgrading your setup, check out our full guide to Softbait Rods for everything you need to know.

Final Word

Winter snapper fishing in NZ isn’t just possible — it’s seriously underrated. If you’re keen to refine your technique, enjoy fewer crowds, and chase bigger fish, now’s the time. Rug up, fish smart, and embrace the winter edge. And if softbaiting is part of your plan, don’t miss our full breakdown on the best Softbait Rods for NZ snapper.

Slow Pitch Jigging in NZ: Master the Technique with Custom SPJ Rods
Mastering Slow Pitch Jigging: The Art of Controlled Power in Deep Water

Slow pitch jigging (SPJ) is a refined vertical fishing technique. It’s built on rhythm, subtlety, and precision. Unlike high-speed jigging, SPJ relies on the natural flutter and fall of a jig, mimicking the behavior of an injured baitfish, drawing strikes even from inactive fish.

Whether you’re targeting snapper, kingfish, bass, or deepwater species like hapuka and bluenose, SPJ delivers lifelike movement. It’s a technique that predators find hard to resist.

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What Is Slow Pitch Jigging?
SPJ focuses on one critical thing: the fall. After a short lift of the rod, the jig descends with slack or semi-slack line. During this descent, the jig flutters, glides, or spirals—just like a wounded baitfish.

This technique works especially well when:

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1. Rod Action
SPJ rods are built for controlled movement, not brute strength. Look for a parabolic bend with a crisp recovery. The rod should have a lightweight feel with a strong backbone. It’s designed to work jigs with minimal input.

2. Reel and Line Setup
Use compact overhead reels with high gear ratios (6:1 or higher). Choose braided line (PE 1.5–3) for low drag and maximum sensitivity. A fluorocarbon leader offers stealth and abrasion resistance.

3. Jig Design and Weight Selection
SPJ jigs are center-weighted or slightly tail-heavy. They flutter, slide, or spiral during the fall—triggering strikes from predatory fish.
Choosing the right weight depends on water depth, drift speed, and current strength:

• Shallow water (20–50m): 80g to 150g
• Mid-depth (50–100m): 150g to 250g
• Deep drops (100–200m+): 250g to 400g+
• In fast currents or very deep water: up to 500g

Always match the jig weight to your rod’s rating and PE line class to maintain a sharp and controlled presentation.

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How to Work a Slow Pitch Jig

• Drop the jig to the target depth.
• Make a small, sharp lift of the rod tip (the “pitch”).
• Let the jig fall with slack or semi-slack line.
• Pause, then repeat with varied timing.
  You’re creating motion on the fall, not just the lift. Each lift loads the rod, and when released, the blank snaps back to animate the jig.

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Why SPJ Works So Well in NZ Waters

• Works well for multiple species: snapper, kingfish, trevally, hapuka, bluenose, bass, and more.
• Triggers bites when fish aren’t feeding actively.
• Effective around structure, reef edges, and bait balls.
• Causes less fatigue compared to fast jigging.

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Pro Tips for Success

• Slow down and experiment with lift and pause timing. Subtle changes often get results.
• Use assist hooks on both the top and bottom to increase hookup rates.
• Watch your sounder closely and target visible structure or bait.
• Maintain a vertical presentation with a drogue or GPS lock.

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Built for the Fall: K-Labs Custom SPJ Rods
At K-Labs, we design rods specifically for New Zealand’s deepwater jigging environments. Our slow pitch rods are fine-tuned for precision action, quick recovery, and the perfect balance of sensitivity and strength. Whether you’re fishing over a 60m reef or probing 200m trenches, our rods give you the control to fish confidently and land hard-hitting species.

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Final Thoughts
Slow pitch jigging rewards anglers who fish with feel, observation, and adaptability. It’s not just about catching fish—it’s about reading the water, fine-tuning your presentation, and mastering subtle movements that trigger explosive strikes. Pair the right rod with the right jig, and you’ll see why slow pitch jigging continues to dominate as one of New Zealand’s most effective deepwater techniques.

K-Labs Custom Built Fishing Rods
www.klabs.co.nz

Fishing rods are built to withstand the pressures of a good fight, but improper handling can lead to frustrating breakages. Most rod damage is preventable with proper care and technique! The key is knowing how to avoid common mistakes like high sticking, point loading, dropping, knocking, chipping blanks, and overloading. Below, we break down these issues and how to prevent them, so you can fish with confidence and keep your rod in top condition.

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1. High Sticking (aka Point Loading)

High sticking is the #1 cause of rod breakage. It happens when you lift the rod at too steep an angle—typically beyond 60–70 degrees—while under load. This focuses all the stress into the top third of the blank, which is the weakest part of the rod.

If a rod breaks in the top section, it’s almost always from incorrect loading—usually due to high sticking. And really, why try to lift a fish with the weakest part of the rod?

What to do instead:

• Keep the rod angle lower so the full blank can flex and absorb the load.
• Let the rod do the lifting, not the reel. The reel is not a winch!
• Never boat a fish by lifting with the rod—grab the leader or use a net.

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2. Dropping and Knocking

Dropping your rod or knocking it against hard surfaces like rocks or the boat can cause immediate or long-term damage. The graphite blanks in many rods are delicate, and even small impacts can cause cracks or weaken the structure.

What to do instead:

• Always place your rod carefully when not in use.
• Use rod holders when moving or storing rods to keep them protected.
• Be mindful of your surroundings to avoid dropping or knocking your rod.

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3. Chipping Blanks

Chips on your rod blank may seem like small damage, but they can weaken the rod and cause it to break when under pressure. Even small nicks or scratches can compromise the blank’s integrity.

What to do instead:

• Inspect your rod regularly for any damage, especially after a long fishing session.
• Store your rod in a protective tube or case when transporting.
• Avoid letting your rod contact rough surfaces unnecessarily.

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4. Overloading the Blank

Overloading occurs when you put more pressure on the rod than it’s designed to handle, often due to using a line that’s too heavy for the rod or trying to lift a large fish with too little support. This puts excessive strain on the blank and can lead to breakage.

What to do instead:

• Match your rod with the appropriate line class and ensure the drag on your reel is set correctly for the species you’re targeting.
• Use proper technique to fight the fish and avoid forcing the rod to take too much pressure.
• Don’t try to lift a fish by cranking on the reel; let the rod do the lifting.

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5. Hooping

Hooping is when the rod bends too far and loses its round shape, becoming oval horizontally. This happens when the rod is overloaded and stressed beyond its design limits, leading to permanent deformation. It’s not just a matter of bending the rod too sharply—it’s about overloading it until it can’t maintain its structural integrity.

What to do instead:

• Never put excessive pressure on the rod by trying to force it into too deep a bend.
• Pay attention to how the rod is bending while fighting a fish, and adjust your technique if needed.
• Always use the full power of the rod, from butt to tip, to absorb the load evenly.

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6. Improper Transport and Storage

Transporting your rod incorrectly can cause damage, especially to the tip. Always store your rod properly and avoid putting it under unnecessary pressure during travel.

What to do instead:

• Use rod tubes or cases for protection when transporting your rods.
• Store rods vertically in a secure spot to avoid unnecessary bending or pressure on the blank.
• Never lean your rod against a hard surface or in a way that could cause stress to the blank.

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Tested for Quality: Every Rod Is Checked Before Shipping

At K-Labs, we don’t just build great rods, we also rigorously test each one before it leaves our workshop. Every rod undergoes a series of stress tests and load tests to ensure that it can handle the toughest conditions and the hardest fighting fish. You can be confident that your K-Labs rod is built to last because we don’t just make rods; we make rods that perform.

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Final Thoughts: Take Care, Fish Smart!

By taking care of your rod and using the right techniques, you can avoid most common forms of rod damage. Remember: slow and steady wins the race when it comes to protecting your gear! Most damage is preventable if you treat your rod with respect and handle it properly. Keep these tips in mind, and you’ll be fishing confidently with a rod that’s built to perform.

K-Labs Custom Built Fishing Rods
www.klabs.co.nz