Category: Uncategorized

Introduction

Most anglers judge a rod by how it bends.

Very few ever think about how fast it unbends.

That speed — known as blank recovery speed — has a massive effect on how far you can cast, how straight your lure tracks, and how much control you have during the entire cast.

For NZ conditions, especially soft-baiting and long-range casting from boats and rocks, recovery speed is not just a “nice to have” — it’s a measurable performance advantage.

What Is Blank Recovery Speed?

When a rod loads up during the cast, it stores energy.

When it unloads, it releases that energy and the blank oscillates (vibrates) until it returns to straight.

A blank with fast recovery stops vibrating almost instantly.

A blank with slow recovery continues wobbling after the lure has already left the tip.

This wobble is lost energy — and lost distance.

Why Recovery Speed Matters for Casting

Here’s what changes when recovery is fast:

1. More Distance

The less the tip oscillates after the release, the more efficiently the rod transfers energy to the lure.

Slow recovery = wasted energy

Fast recovery = added range

The difference can be 5–15 metres depending on the blank and lure weight.

2. Better Accuracy

A wobbling tip sends the lure sideways instead of forward.

Fast recovery rods track straighter, meaning:

• better accuracy at long range
• tighter strike zones
• more precise lure landings

3. Cleaner Lure Action

Slow recovery rods dampen lure movement for the first couple of seconds of the retrieve.

Fast recovery rods snap straight instantly, allowing:

• soft-baits to glide properly
• micro-jigs to flutter cleanly
• topwaters to walk the dog smoother

Why New Zealand Fishing Needs Faster Recovery Rods

New Zealand has a unique mix of conditions that heavily reward faster recovery.

1. We Cast Heavier Baits, Further

NZ fishing = distance.

Soft-baits, sliders, inchiku, micro-jigs, and even metal lures all benefit massively from efficient casting. Long casts get you:

• past the wash
• away from the motor
• on top of schooling fish
• into deeper country quickly

Faster recovery = mechanically longer casts.

2. We Fish Braided Lines Almost 100% of the Time

Braid has zero stretch.

That means any wobble in the rod tip is transmitted directly into the lure instead of being absorbed like mono would.

On slow-recovery rods:

• the lure kicks irregularly
• sink paths become unstable
• the lure sometimes spins or spirals

On fast-recovery rods:

• the lure tracks straight
• presentations are predictable
• bites come earlier

Braid exposes the flaws of slow recovery — and amplifies the benefits of fast recovery.

3. NZ Soft-baiting Is All About Contact

Snapper and kahawai hits are often light, fast, and short-lived.

A slow-recovery rod masks bites.

A fast-recovery rod transmits them cleanly.

That means:

• more hook-ups
• fewer missed strikes
• better control during the fight

4. Wind. Lots of Wind.

NZ is windier than most countries anglers compare gear with.

Fast recovery cuts through wind better because:

• the lure launches straighter
• the line peels cleaner
• the rod tip stabilises immediately

This gives you better performance in the exact conditions Kiwis commonly fish.

Why Some Rods Still Have Slow Recovery

Because they’re built to a price — not a purpose.

Many offshore-market rods (especially US bass rods) are:

• shorter
• built for mono
• designed for close-range casting
• optimised for larger lures

Their recovery speed is tuned for a completely different fishing style.

NZ fishing involves:

• longer casts
• lighter lures
• braided lines
• windy conditions
• high sensitivity requirements

So yes — NZ genuinely benefits more from fast-recovery blanks than most other markets.

Does Braided Line Compensate for Slow Recovery?

No. It actually makes it worse.

Mono hides slow recovery by absorbing vibration.

Braid reveals every vibration because it transmits everything.

This is why some anglers describe slow-recovery rods as:

• “wobbly”
• “spongy”
• “noisy”
• “hard to control”

Fast recovery + braid is the perfect match.

Slow recovery + braid exaggerates all the flaws.

Blank Material & Recovery Speed

Blank recovery is influenced by:

• carbon modulus
• wall thickness
• taper design
• fibre orientation
• resin system

Modern 24–46T carbons deliver far faster recovery than older 20T materials or fiberglass composites.

This is why high-modulus NZ-designed soft-bait rods feel “alive” in your hand — they stop moving instantly.

How to Tell if a Rod Has Fast Recovery

You can test this in seconds.

1. Hold the rod horizontally.
2. Flick the tip downward and release.
3. Watch how long it takes to stop vibrating.

Fast recovery = stops in under 0.5 seconds

Slow recovery = continues wobbling for 1–2 seconds

Another giveaway:

A fast-recovery rod will feel crisp after the cast — a slow-recovery rod keeps quivering.

Final Thoughts

Blank recovery speed isn’t marketing fluff — it’s physics.

If you want:

• longer casts
• straighter casts
• better lure control
• better sensitivity
• more hook-ups

…then recovery speed is one of the most important blank characteristics you can pay attention to.

For New Zealand fishing — especially soft-baiting — fast recovery is a genuine, measurable advantage.

FAQ — Blank Recovery Speed & Casting Distance

1. What is blank recovery speed?

Blank recovery speed is how quickly a fishing rod returns to straight after being loaded. Faster recovery means more efficient energy transfer, better accuracy, and improved casting distance.

2. Does recovery speed affect casting distance?

Yes. Slow recovery wastes energy because the rod tip continues to wobble after release. Fast recovery transfers more stored energy into the lure, resulting in longer, smoother casts.

3. Why do New Zealand conditions benefit from faster-recovering rods?

NZ anglers cast in wind, swell, current, and often use lighter lures. Faster recovery stabilises the blank quickly so the lure tracks straighter and cuts through wind more efficiently.

4. Does braid compensate for slow blank recovery?

No. Braid improves sensitivity but cannot fix tip wobble. Slow-recovery blanks still lose energy through oscillation. Braid actually makes wobble more noticeable.

5. Will a fast-recovery blank feel stiffer?

Not always. Fast recovery is about how quickly the blank settles, not how stiff it feels. A rod can be responsive and have a soft tip.

6. Does recovery speed impact lure accuracy?

Yes. Slow-recovery blanks oscillate and send the lure off-line. Fast-recovery blanks stabilise immediately, giving straighter, more predictable lure flight.

7. How can I test if my rod has fast recovery?

Gently load the rod, release it, and watch the tip. A fast-recovery blank snaps back and settles immediately. A slow-recovery rod continues to wobble or flutter.

By K-Labs Custom Rods NZ

Introduction

Most anglers never think about it.

Most factory rods don’t get it right.

But reel seat placement is one of the most important decisions in rod building — and one of the biggest reasons custom rods feel so much better than mass-produced rods.

Move the reel seat forward, and the rod feels longer, slower, and less responsive.

Move it back, and it becomes faster, more sensitive, and noticeably more powerful in your hands.

A rod is a lever.

The fulcrum point — where the rod naturally pivots — determines everything about how a rod loads, casts, and fights fish.

Understanding this single principle can completely change how your rod performs.

1. The Rod’s Fulcrum Point Explained

Every rod has a natural pivot or fulcrum point — the exact place where:

• your hand pressure
• the reel weight
• rod flex
• and the blank’s load

all meet.

Move the reel seat and you physically shift that fulcrum.

Shift the fulcrum, and the entire rod behaves differently.

A rod is simply a lever, and reel seat placement determines how long each arm of that lever is — in front of your hand, and behind it.

That distance controls:

• speed
• leverage
• balance
• sensitivity
• casting feel
• fatigue
• hook-set power

Everything.

2. Why Factory Rods Get Reel Seat Placement Wrong

Most factory rods place reel seats too far forward.

There are two reasons:

A) It’s faster for mass production

Factories use preset jigs for handle assembly.

That means:

• fixed rear grip lengths
• fixed foregrip lengths
• fixed reel-seat positions
• zero adjustment
• maximum speed

Mass production demands uniformity, not optimisation.

Adjusting reel seat placement adds labour time — so they don’t do it.

B) They design rods to fit the “average” angler

Factories don’t know:

• your arm length
• your natural hand spacing
• your fishing style
• where you grip the rod
• your preferred balance

So they build around a generic middle ground.

The result:

❌ less leverage

❌ reduced sensitivity

❌ inefficient fulcrum mechanics

❌ awkward casting feel

❌ increased fatigue

This is why many factory rods feel dull or unbalanced — the handle layout is built for convenience, not performance.

⭐ 

Reel Seat Placement Trends Around the World

Reel seat placement is also shaped heavily by regional fishing styles.

🇺🇸 

United States — 8–10” Butts Are Standard on Bass Rods

US bass rods commonly have 8–10 inch rear grips.

Not because it’s optimal for power — but because bass fishing is:

• tip-down
• close-range
• wrist-driven
• based on one-hand lure control

These short grips became industry standard simply because they fit the technique.

🇦🇺 

Australia — Same Trend on Bass & Barra Rods

Australian bass & barra rods also use 8–10 inch butts, again because:

• one-handed lure work
• tip-down rod angle
• shallow-water presentations

These designs work for that specific style — but they aren’t optimal for leverage or fulcrum mechanics.

Different Regions → Different Defaults

Compare this with:

• NZ softbaiting
• surfcasting
• rock fishing
• offshore jigging
• slow pitch
• livebaiting

These use much longer handles with completely different fulcrum positions.

Why this matters

This proves most handle layouts are based on:

• tradition
• production templates
• regional norms

NOT on what actually produces the best balance, power, or sensitivity.

This is where custom rods outperform factory rods every single time.

3. The Downside of Forward Reel Seat Placement

Setting the reel seat too far forward causes:

❌ Reduced leverage and lifting power

❌ Less sensitivity

❌ Slower rod recovery

❌ Tip-heavy feel

❌ More fatigue during lure work

❌ Less accuracy and control

It makes even a premium blank feel average.

⭐ 

Small Changes Make a Huge Difference

This is something most anglers never realise:

Even moving a reel seat by just 10–20 mm can completely change how a rod loads, balances, and feels.

A tiny shift can turn a rod from sluggish → sharp, or from tip-heavy → perfectly balanced.

This is exactly why custom rods feel so good — the smallest details are tuned precisely for the angler.

4. Move the Reel Seat Back — What Happens

A well-placed reel seat transforms the rod:

✔ 

More leverage

Less effort, more lifting power.

✔ 

Better sensitivity

Shorter vibration travel path = clearer feel.

✔ 

Sharper action

A quicker, more responsive blank.

✔ 

Better balance

The fulcrum lines up with your natural grip.

✔ 

More precise lure control

Softbaits, jigs, and micro lures feel “connected.”

These improvements are instantly noticeable.

5. Your Arm Length Actually Matters

Custom rods account for:

• reach
• hand spacing
• reel weight
• fighting style

Factory rods don’t.

This alone makes a huge difference in comfort and performance.

6. How Reel Seat Placement Changes Action

Reel seat placement directly affects:

Rod stiffness distribution

Forward seat = stiffer butt, deeper loading

Rear seat = faster action, more tip speed

Hook-set power

Closer to the blank = more direct energy transfer

Casting feel

Forward = slower, heavier load

Rear = sharper, quicker snap

The rod’s entire character changes.

7. Sensitivity Improvements

A shorter reel seat distance increases:

• blank-to-hand connection
• vibration clarity
• bite detection
• lure feedback
• overall responsiveness

This is why people often describe custom rods as:

“Way more alive than my factory rods.”

8. Fighting Power & Leverage Mechanics

Forward reel seat:

• harder to lift
• soft in the butt
• more tiring

Optimised reel seat:

• easier lifting
• stronger butt power
• less fatigue
• better control under load

Especially noticeable for:

• softbaiting
• slow pitch jigging
• straylining
• snapper spinning
• kayak fishing

9. Why Factory Rods Rarely Get It Right

Because factories prioritise:

• speed
• cost
• templates
• uniformity

Custom rods prioritise:

• the angler
• the technique
• the blank’s behaviour
• perfect fulcrum tuning

That’s the difference.

Conclusion

Reel seat placement is not cosmetic — it is a core performance factor.

It affects:

• action
• leverage
• sensitivity
• balance
• comfort
• fatigue
• casting
• power

Small changes make big differences, and the right layout makes a rod feel like a true extension of your arm.

This is why custom built rods consistently outperform mass-produced rods — they’re built around you.

FAQ — Reel Seat Placement & The Fulcrum Point

1. What is the fulcrum point on a fishing rod?

The fulcrum point is the natural pivot point created where your hand pressure, reel weight, and the rod’s flex all meet. Changing reel seat placement shifts this pivot, which changes how the rod loads and behaves.

2. How does reel seat placement affect rod performance?

It changes leverage, balance, power delivery, sensitivity, casting comfort, and how efficiently the rod transfers energy. A small shift in placement can noticeably change how a rod feels and performs.

3. Why does moving the reel seat a few millimetres make such a difference?

Because it alters the length of the lever arms in front of and behind your hand. Even tiny changes shift the balance point and pivot point, affecting loading, tip control, and fatigue.

4. How does reel seat position affect rod sensitivity?

Incorrect positioning can dampen vibrations or create an unbalanced feel. A well-placed reel seat improves vibration transfer, making bites easier to feel — especially with light lures.

5. Does reel seat placement affect casting distance?

Yes. Poor placement changes how efficiently the rod loads and unloads during the cast. Optimal placement improves load timing, increases energy transfer, and reduces wasted movement.

6. Should reel seats be placed differently for soft-baiting vs. jigging?

Yes. Soft-bait rods need slightly different leverage and balance than mechanical jig rods. NZ anglers often prefer a more forward or rear-biased setup depending on technique and lure weight.

7. Does reel weight matter when choosing reel seat placement?

Absolutely. Reel weight significantly affects balance and the fulcrum point. A heavy reel moves the balance point rearward; a light reel pushes it forward.

By K-Labs Custom Rods NZ

Introduction

Ask most anglers what makes a rod “sensitive” and you’ll usually hear one answer:

“High modulus carbon.”

It’s the most overused line in rod marketing — and one of the least understood.

Sensitivity is not a single material.

It’s a combination of design factors that determine how much vibration reaches your hand.

In fact, a well-built 24T rod can feel more sensitive than a poorly-built 40T rod.

Here’s the truth behind rod sensitivity, based on real workshop experience — not marketing.

1. Blank Modulus Is Only One Piece of the Puzzle

High-modulus carbon can improve sensitivity thanks to reduced weight and increased stiffness —

but only if everything else around it supports that performance.

A high-modulus blank weighed down with:

• heavy guides
• thick epoxy
• bulky grips
• excess glue
• poor balance

…will feel dead.

A lower-modulus blank with:

• light guides
• tight wraps
• minimal epoxy
• efficient handle design
• good balance

…can feel alive and crisp.

Modulus matters, but it is nowhere near the whole story.

2. Guide Weight Influences Sensitivity More Than Most Realise

Every guide is a weight hanging off the blank.

Weight slows recovery.

Slower recovery = reduced sensitivity.

This is why guide systems matter so much:

• Fuji K-Series
• Fuji Torzite
• Titanium frames

These dramatically reduce weight and increase vibration transfer.

Often, switching to lighter guides improves sensitivity more than upgrading the blank.

3. Handle Design Determines What You Actually Feel

Your hand is the sensor.

The handle is the interface.

A poorly fitted or overly bulky grip absorbs vibration before it reaches your hand.

Key factors:

• EVA vs cork density
• Correct fit (not too tight, not swimming in glue)
• Split grip vs full grip
• Reel seat material
• Direct blank exposure under the reel seat

A properly fitted EVA split grip can transmit more feel than a mass-produced cork handle packed with excess adhesive.

4. Rod Weight & Balance Change Perceived Sensitivity

Two rods built on the same blank can feel totally different.

A rod that’s tip-heavy:

• feels sluggish
• feels less responsive
• transmits less vibration

A well-balanced rod feels faster, lighter, sharper, even before you cast it.

This is where custom builders beat factory rods every time.

5. Recovery Speed = Sensitivity

When you jig or twitch a lure, the blank is constantly rebounding.

A rod with fast recovery feels crisp and sensitive.

A rod with slow recovery feels dull — even if the blank modulus is high.

Recovery speed is affected by:

• guide weight
• blank taper
• wall thickness
• thread wraps
• epoxy build
• guide spacing

A lighter, cleaner build improves recovery immediately.

6. Connection Points: Where Sensitivity Gets Lost

Anywhere two materials meet, vibration can be absorbed.

Examples:

• excess glue under grips
• reel seats with gaps
• thick epoxy on guide feet
• misaligned guides
• grip sections glued unevenly

A rod is only as sensitive as its weakest vibration link.

This is why skilled custom builds always feel “sharper.”

7. Why a Blank Is at Its Very Best With Nothing On It

This is pure rod-builder truth:

A raw blank performs at its peak before anything is added.

Bare carbon has:

• perfect recovery
• no added weight
• maximum vibration transfer
• pure taper response

The moment components are added — even lightweight ones — the blank is changed.

Guides add weight.

Thread and epoxy add hard points.

Grips add mass and vibration damping.

Reel seats add leverage and stiffness.

A finished rod can never feel exactly like the bare blank.

The goal of custom building is to preserve as much of that original character as possible.

8. And the More You Add, The More the Action Changes

A blank has a natural flex curve.

Every component shifts that curve slightly.

• More guides = stiffer tip
• Larger guides = slower recovery
• Excess thread/epoxy = hard spots
• Long, heavy rear grip = stiffens the butt

Even finger-length changes in component placement alter the rod’s action and perceived power.

This is why two rods built on the same blank can feel completely different in the hand.

Conclusion

Sensitivity is not a single number or modulus rating.

It’s the sum of every decision in the build:

• blank choice
• guide system
• wraps
• epoxy quality
• handle design
• balance
• recovery speed
• and preserving the blank’s natural character

When all of this comes together, you get a rod that feels alive, not just stiff.

This is the difference between a mass-production rod and a precision-built K-Labs custom rod.

Bought May 2014 · Price Paid: £75 GBP · Current Model: ~£125 GBP

Back in May 2014, I picked up a pair of Palm Nova launching boots — ordered from the UK because that’s usually where the sharper deals are, and the NZ range for this type of gear can be limited. I said I’d report back eventually, and 11 years and 6 months later, here it is.

First Impressions (2014)

Straight out of the box, the boots felt solid and comfortable, with a good grippy sole for ramps and shoreline launching.

But one thing stood out from day one:

👉 The top strap never quite tightened enough.

It did the job, but a little bit of slack always remained, and that occasionally let a splash sneak in during deeper launches.

11+ Years of Real-World Use

After more than a decade of kayak launching, saltwater, sand, mud, winter mornings and summer heat:

• They’re still in one piece.
• They stayed comfortable for walking and wading.
• The sole grip remained reliable, even on slimy ramps.
• No stitching failures, delamination, or major blowouts.

Eleven years of use gives a fair idea of their long-term durability, and they’ve held up far better than expected. They’ve softened with age — as neoprene always does — but they never quit.

Launching Habit That Helped

During launching I tuck my kayak trousers into the boots, and once I’m in the kayak, I pull them back out over the top.

This simple move stops paddle drip or small chop from finding its way down into the boots once underway.

Care Routine That Made a Big Difference

One of the main reasons they’ve lasted this long is simple:

👉 Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after every use, and let them dry properly.

No shortcuts.

This prevents salt from attacking the stitching, keeps the neoprene healthy, and lets the boots dry without going musty or stiff.

The Updated Model (Observed, Not Owned Yet)

The new Palm Nova sells for around £125 GBP, and the biggest improvement is obvious:

👉 A redesigned top strap with noticeably better adjustment.

That was the only weak point in the old pair, so it’s good to see the update. I haven’t bought the new version yet — I’ll make that call the moment I feel I’ve sprung a leak — but on appearance alone, the improvement is sensible and overdue.

Final Thoughts

After 11½ years, the original Palm Nova boots have proven to be:

• Durable
• Practical
• Comfortable
• Surprisingly long-lasting, given the conditions they’ve been used in

The updated strap design on the new model appears to fix the only real annoyance the original ever had.

A straightforward, real-world verdict:

These boots go the distance — especially if you look after them.

When the Tip-Top Insert Breaks

It’s one of the most common issues anglers face — a chipped, cracked, or missing ceramic insert in the tip guide.

You’ll often hear it before you see it — a faint scraping sound as the line runs through, or subtle fraying near your leader knot after a few casts.

The damage isn’t always obvious. A hairline crack or slightly misaligned insert can cut through braid or mono in minutes, especially under tension. That’s why it pays to inspect your tip-top regularly — run a cotton bud or piece of tissue through the ring. If it snags or tears, the insert’s damaged.

The good news? This one’s an easy fix — and with the right materials, you can get back fishing within minutes.

What You’ll Need

To make a quick, reliable repair, you only need a few basic items:

• Replacement tip-top guide (same ring style as your original)
• Small lighter or torch
• Tip-top glue (hot-melt or low-temp adhesive stick)
• Pliers or multi-tool
• Optional: 2-part epoxy clear coat for a permanent, watertight seal

Step-by-Step: Replacing the Tip-Top Insert

1. Remove the damaged tip

Gently heat the metal tube of the old tip-top with a lighter for 2–3 seconds. Once the glue softens, grip the guide with pliers and slide it off.

Avoid overheating — you only want to soften the adhesive, not scorch the blank.

2. Clean the rod tip

Wipe away any leftover glue or debris. The end of the blank should be smooth, clean, and free from splinters or loose carbon fibres.

A tidy surface helps the new tip seat evenly and ensures a stronger bond.

3. Heat the glue and fit the new tip

Warm the end of your tip-top glue until soft, then apply a small amount to the blank. Slide the new tip-top onto the rod, twisting slightly to spread the glue evenly inside the tube.

Align the ring perfectly with your other guides while the glue is still soft.

4. Hold until cool

Hold the new tip steady for 30 seconds while the glue sets. Once cool, check that the alignment is perfect — if it’s off, gently reheat and adjust before the adhesive fully hardens.

5. Seal the repair (optional but recommended)

For a longer-lasting, watertight finish, apply a thin coat of 2-part epoxy clear coat around the base of the new tip-top.

This seals out moisture, adds UV protection, and locks the guide in place for years of use.

Pro Insight

A loose or damaged tip insert can easily cut line or weaken knots, often ruining good fish in seconds.

If you hear a rough “sawing” sound during retrieve, or notice scuffed braid, check your tip immediately — even a small crack can do serious damage under load.

At K-Labs Custom Rods, every re-tip is aligned, bonded, and epoxy-sealed using the same precision process as our custom builds.

If you’d rather have it done professionally, we can assess, re-tip, and refinish your rod so it looks and performs like new — perfectly aligned, smooth, and watertight.